August 8, 2023

Saguaros are synonymous with the Sonoran Desert, a small corner of the world spanning northern Mexico and the southwestern United States.
Each saguaro holds a unique form with variable numbers of arms projecting from its midline, most arms not sprouting until ~50 years of age. Delicate white flowers bloom on their heads in the spring, decorating their tops like jewels. Like giant, 200 year old treasures rooted into the earth.
Saguaro forests are essential to the Sonoran Desert ecosystem. They provide nest cavities for a number of bat and bird species, as well as pulp-filled fruit for any animal who can get its paws (or beak) on it. All of the birds I photographed on this day were utilizing the saguaro in some way— either by perching on, eating, or nesting inside of one.
More on that below, but first, lizards.

I approached two lizards preparing for combat in the middle of the road in Saguaro National Park and had to do a double take. I’d never seen lizards remotely as colorful, and certainly none with zebra-striped tails.


They circled each other with intent before standing completely still. Out of nowhere, they pounced into action and a battle ensued.
I’ll let the photos tell the story here.




The lizards wrestled in the sand for several minutes, one eventually claiming victory over the other. After they scurried away, I sat in disbelief at what I just witnessed.
Further down the road, a Cactus Wren and White-winged Dove chowed down on ripe saguaro fruit.




They were up to their foreheads in fruit— literally.
Another dove species photographed below, a Mourning Dove, cooed from a perch on a saguaro skeleton.


The bird photographed above is a little warrior. This bird is a male Desert Purple Martin, a subspecies of Purple Martin that breeds in the Sonoran Desert and builds its nests in saguaro cavities. Their population is estimated at a few thousand, and like other avian long-distance migratory insectivore populations, is in decline.
Before August 2023, no one knew where Desert Purple Martins migrated for the winter. It was presumed they spent their winters in Brazil, but where in Brazil was anyone’s guess. Protecting long-distance migratory birds requires action across their entire range, not just on their breeding or wintering grounds. International, transhemispheric, and transcontinental conservation efforts are vital.
A team of researchers and I deployed a “tracker” on his back like a small backpack, crossing our fingers that we’d be able to find him the next year to download the data from his tag. No bird, no data.
The photograph above is of the tagged Purple Martin after he returned the following summer. He flew to the exact same saguaro all the way from his wintering grounds in South America. We caught him, clipped a string to release his “backpack,” and downloaded his migratory pathway. It was one of the most exciting days of my life. We found that he migrated to a region of Brazil distinct from either of the other two Purple Martin subspecies. More tags have since been deployed, so here’s to hoping we can uncover even more.

The Desert Purple Martin nestling above called out for its mom or dad to bring a dragonfly for lunch. I bet they obliged.


It was mid-afternoon and well over 100°F (38°C) when I found the Greater Roadrunner above. He scanned the landscape from a callused, broken-off saguaro arm before seeking shade under a nearby bush.

As evening approached and other birds settled in for the night, two Lesser Nighthawks flew by, stretching their wings in preparation for the day ahead.
It turns out the desert never sleeps.
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